Same is true for the end cap on a shimano hollowtech ii crankset.
Headset top cap torque.
Align your handlebar stem and apply the appropriate torque rating to the steerer tube clamp bolts.
Too tight can damage bearings.
I would say 5 n m is safe.
You want the minimum torque to reduce play in the headset.
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Depending on how loose your headset bearing feels you can make adjustments to the bearing tension with the 5mm allen bolt located in the top cap.
Top caps are compatible with all 1 1 8 aluminum steerer tubes.
The edc cap kit includes the worlds lightest headset top cap 4 2g and an edc steerer plug with drain hole which keeps crud out of your steerer.
A torque wrench is a good idea at this point.
As others have said the top cap is pre load only.
The edc steerer plug is required for edc tool storage and is compatible with most aluminum tapered steerer.
Do not overtighten it.
Adding tension to the bolt will pull the threaded star nut which is found wedged inside the steerer tube upwards moving the fork crown race bearing more tightly into the lower headset cup.
Make sure it still turns freely.
Once the stem is tightened in place is is purely cosmetic and covers the top of the steerer.
On to your problem it could be the clicking you hear is because the pre load top cap is a tiny bit loose.
It is non load bearing.
Do up the headset top cap until it is just tight at this point you should be unable to turn your stem spacers.
You will need to loosen stem then tighten this top cap slightly quarter turn or so.
On a custom bicycle headset cap for any type of bike.